Raja Ampat

We made the long haul over in stages—Portland to Seattle, then across the Pacific in the middle of the night, chasing time zones and eventually hopping the International Date Line. Business class helped; being able to stretch out and actually sleep made a big difference, and we took advantage of every lounge, snack, and quiet corner we could find along the way. There were a few hiccups—misplaced visas that magically reappeared when we needed them, a long walk across Jakarta’s airport to the wrong hotel before finding the right one—but nothing that derailed us. By the time we reached Sorong (somewhere around Sunday, we think), we had met folks from all over—Canada, the Netherlands, the U.S.—all headed to the same place. From there it was ferry, then a smaller boat, and finally Biodiversity, where we were welcomed, fed, and pretty much collapsed into bed, exhausted but glad to be there.

The days that followed had a rhythm—early mornings, coffee delivered to the room, out on the water, then back for food, rest, and a cold beer at Happy Hour—but reality had other plans. We both came down with a pretty good bug, each taking a turn being down for the count for several days. We took care of each other, and the folks at Biodiversity were terrific, helping however they could. In between the downtime, we managed some truly memorable moments: warm, easy snorkeling over huge coral fields, turtles and octopus sightings, sharks cruising in for fish scraps at the dock, and the occasional drift through strong currents that did most of the work for us. Rod pushed through to finish his dive certification (and celebrate his birthday), while Marg explored with new friends from around the world. Toward the end, as we finally felt human again, we got in some great trips—Piaynemo’s stunning views, kayaking through mangroves, Cape Kri, Yenbuba, and a final beautiful day on the water. Not perfect by any means, but one of those trips you remember just the same—maybe even more because of it.